The self-proclaimed Republic of Somaliland was formed in 1991 after the collapse of unitary Somalia. Thanks mainly to the dominance of a single clan (the Isaq), it has remained relatively peaceful and stable since 1991, despite the occasional terrorist attack. Somaliland has all the attributes of a “normal” state: a parliament, free press, a currency, … Continue reading
Lake Tana is perhaps most famous for the monasteries sprinkled across its shoreline and islands. Many monasteries date from the late 16th or early 17th century, though most were founded much earlier and likely were the site of pre-Christian shrines. One of the best examples of traditional Ethiopian monasteries, Ura Kidane Meret, sits on the … Continue reading
The mountain highlands of Ethiopia are a tough place to scratch out an existence… Extremely isolated and in a harsh, unforgiving environment, it doesn’t take much for things to go very wrong out here. And, in fact, this area was near ground zero for the infamous famines of the 1980s. However, there is an undeniable … Continue reading
A recently acquired hobby of the current president of Ethiopia is having war memorials dedicated to the Derg and Ethiopian resistance to the Derg constructed. The cynics among my readers might suggest that this is because the president is seeking to glamorize his role in the rebel movement as he becomes increasingly unpopular. However, I’m … Continue reading
Straddling the border of Somalia and Ethiopia, Wajaale is where my Italian and I crossed into Somalia. It’s a real frontier border town with no frills or attractiveness. **** Below is the first Ethiopian border post we came to… Everyone is dragged off the bus and extensively searched – the guards paw through your luggage, … Continue reading
The largest town on Lake Tana is Bahir Dar. I’ve told you about Lake Tana, so here is a piece on Bahir Dar. Ethiopians describe Bahir Dar as being their Riviera and, while it has wide streets shaded by palm trees and sweeping views across the shimmering blue waters of Lake Tana, it is nevertheless … Continue reading
Although smaller in size than the northwestern group, the southeastern cluster offers not only one of Lalibela’s most finely carved churches, but also a touch of intrigue with various historians debating whether some churches had pasts as prisons and palaces. Before I proceed though… I received a couple of emails in response to my previous … Continue reading
The Velvet Rocket 