Places We Go / Sinai Peninsula (Egypt)

The Sinai Peninsula

beautiful sinai desert

The Sinai Peninsula is becoming interesting…

In the year since Egypt’s Hosni Mubarak was toppled, most of the world’s attention has been focused on Cairo and the Nile heartland of Egypt. This is not surprising or inappropriate… The future of the Arab world’s most populous country is being determined in the struggle between the army and the revolutionaries, as well as in elections for parliament and the presidency and this is more than a little relevant to the region and the world at large.

However, there have also been important developments in Egypt’s eastern frontier, the Sinai Peninsula. The Sinai, the land bridge between Africa and Asia, is also the gateway to Gaza and Israel from Egypt. Armies have crossed it for centuries – including Egypt and Israel which fought over it from 1948 to 1979.

The Sinai began to pop up on my radar when I started hearing from various sources about the explosion in smuggling activity through the Sinai following the overthrow of Hosni Mubarak last year in Cairo. However, when an aspiring al Qaeda affiliate first calling itself Al Qaeda in the Sinai Peninsula and then Ansar al Jihad announced its presence in the Sinai Peninsula, I moved the Sinai to the the top of the list as things were obviously hotting up there.

Ansar al Jihad formally announced its existence on December 20th, 2011 with a statement in which they claimed responsibility for a number of recent attacks and announced:

“With this message we send you the good tidings of the birth of the group ‘Ansar al-Jihad in the Sinai Peninsula,’ and we pledge unto Allah the Great and Almighty to do our best to fight the corrupt regime and its henchmen among the Jews, the Americans, and those around them.”

The group vowed “to fulfill the oath of the martyr of the Ummah, our Sheikh Osama bin Laden, may Allah have mercy on him: ‘I swear by Allah the Great who raised the sky without pillars, that America nor those who live in America will ever enjoy security as long as we don’t live it in reality in Palestine and before all the infidel armies leave the Land of Muhammad ….

The Islamic nation can clearly see how Muslims in Egypt, particularly in Sinai, suffered from the oppression of Hosni Mubarak and his criminal allies, the so-called Israel, occupier of Palestine, as well as the great enemy of Islam, the cursed Americans.

Now, the wealth of Egypt’s land is cheaply donated to the bitterest enemies of religion, Israel [Eds. Note: This is a reference to the perception of many Egyptians that Egypt’s gas deal with Israel, signed in the Mubarak era, allows Israel to obtain Egyptian natural gas without paying a fair price for it.], in order to please the biggest enemy of Islam, America. Mubarak, lover of crime and murder, suppressed protests against him, threw protesters in prisons that are like tombs and arbitrarily arrested our Sunni and Salafi brothers on the grounds that they threaten the security of the state.”

Now, to fully explain what is going on here, we need to back up a bit and cover the Bedouins and the economy of the Sinai.

Let’s start with the Bedouins…  I believe all of our readers know who the Bedouins are, but just in case someone reading this does not – the Bedouins are a primarily nomadic people of Arab descent that live in some of the harshest deserts of the world.  They are a very proud people that make wonderful, loyal friends and terrible enemies.

A Bedouin camp in the Sinai:

sinai desert bedouin camp

The Bedouins have long been at odds with the government in Cairo.  They feel both neglected and discriminated against by Egyptian society and complain that they do not see the benefits of tourist development along the Red Sea.

This provides a good segue into the economy of the Sinai…

The Sinai is a desert.  And a remote, barren one at that.  So, historically, the only way to make money in the Sinai has been through smuggling and tourism along the Red Sea.

The Egyptian government is acutely aware of the value of tourism to the Sinai economy and even allows visitors access to a special tourist zone along the eastern coast of the Sinai without the need for a visa.

However, the economic dynamics of the Sinai have been turned on their head following the recent political upheaval. Tourism along the Red Sea has absolutely collapsed.  People read about the “revolution” in Egypt and are scared away.  Subsequent riots, kidnappings and general turmoil have not helped soothe the nerves of these Nervous Nellies…  Thus, a major pillar of the Sinai economy has been knocked out.

An abandoned luxury hotel in Sinai near the town of Nuweiba:

abandoned hotel sinai

One of the empty beaches in Sinai… 18 months ago this beach was swarming with tourists:

empty beach sinai

Deserted and decaying tourist infrastructure along the Sinai Peninsula:

empty tourist sinai

As mentioned above, the other pillar of the Sinai economy is smuggling.  Smuggling and crime are rampant among the Bedouin tribes.

During the revolution last February, police stations in the Sinai were abandoned or attacked and looted by disaffected Bedouins.  The Egyptian police have never been very welcome here, and in the time since the Egyptian revolution they have all but vanished, essentially leaving local Bedouin tribes to provide the only law and order.

Now, one would think that with the collapse of the police and military presence in the Sinai that smuggling would be booming.  Well, it is.  Too much so, in fact.

Smuggling is now so easy that all of its profits have evaporated.  What makes smuggling lucrative is transporting a scarce commodity through a difficult landscape to a final buyer willing to pay a lot for the hard to obtain item.

However, now anyone can smuggle goods across the Sinai to the point where an outside observer wouldn’t even know it was illegal. And so the market is flooded with cars, guns, drugs, etc.  It’s too much of a good thing for the Bedouins (And a strong argument for the legalization of contraband elsewhere, but that’s another discussion)…

Thus, the second pillar of the Sinai economy has been knocked out as well.

Just because most of the profits from smuggling have collapsed, however, that does not mean that the smuggling has stopped completely…

It is somewhat difficult to delve into the world of smuggling, but we did it. After we had made friends with the locals in the Sinai and were checked out, a few discreet inquiries brought us into contact with some Bedouin smugglers desperate for a little extra money. They reluctantly agreed to show us the ropes providing we promised not to reveal their faces or anything other than their first names.

Setting off with the smugglers… Ibrahim is driving and Samar is in the passenger seat:

sinai smugglers

Technically, we are strictly forbidden from entering the region of the Sinai that we were taken into. And the roads across the Sinai where these checkpoints are found are one of the few areas of the Sinai in which the Egyptian government still maintains a presence, even if it is a largely symbolic one. However, a little intimidation coupled with a little money changing hands, swept us right through checkpoints such as this:

sinai peninsula checkpoint

The landscape of the Sinai is not one of rolling sand dunes as many imagine. Rather, it is one of rugged mountains and deep canyons:

sinai peninsula egypt

sinai peninsula

sinai mountains

sinai desert egypt

sinai desert acacia tree

sinai desert


Ansar al Jihad sinai

In other words, this is a prime landscape for smugglers…

Ibrahim and Samar agreed to take us along some of their smuggling routes and to show us how it all works:

sinai desert smuggling road

sinai desert

These canyons provide great paths for the smugglers to snake through the landscape… The smugglers do not always use these routes. Obviously, the preferred method is to simply drive right up to the border with Gaza or Israel and swap the smuggled goods from the back of a jeep. However, until the past year, this was much easier said than done.

Traditionally, the smugglers have been forced to make their way across the desert through narrow canyons and winding trails:

sinai desert canyon

sinai desert canyon

Samar taking us on a smuggler’s trail they used often before the past year changed everything:

bedouin sinai

The smugglers spoke nostalgically of the profits from smuggling before the Egyptian “revolution” took place and said they hoped more Egyptian police and military forces would be moved into the Sinai so they could start making money again. They indicated they would simply transition back to using these trails if security improves in the Sinai:

bedouin smuggler sinai

Ibrahim assured me that they do not discriminate when it comes to smuggling. They’re willing to smuggle people, animals, narcotics, weapons, medicine – whatever pays the best. And they don’t care much who the customer is either… I joked with Ibrahim and Samar about smuggling for Israel or America and they told me, in all seriousness, that they’d love to do business with them.

Although overall profits from smuggling may have collapsed, Ibrahim informed me that obtaining and transporting heavy weaponry is still lucrative as such war machinery is highly desired.

The entire smuggling pipeline is awash with weapons, many coming from stockpiles opened up since the fall of Muammar Gaddafi, but also from Libyan rebels that received weapons from foreign supporters, including the governments of France and Qatar.

In October of 2011, David Kirkpatrick reported for the New York Times that Egyptian Interior Ministry officials had arrested five groups of smugglers in the Sinai Peninsula over the preceding months that were transporting weapons from Libya, including antiaircraft missiles and rocket propelled grenades, toward the border with Israel.  One wonders how many groups got through…

Although AK-47 assault rifles are relatively ubiquitous across the Sinai, the presence of antiaircraft missiles and antiarmor weapons is a worrisome development to the Israelis because they can be fired on the aircraft Israel relies on to patrol Gaza and conduct airstrikes.

Ibrahim told me that Hamas and other militant groups want these weapons and they can pay for them. When I pressed him for more details about this, he realized what he had shared with me and became vague and claimed he’d just “heard about it”.

This flood of weapons following the revolts in Egypt, Tunisia and Libya are a demonstration of the law of unintended consequences…

Samar showing The Velvet Rocket another trail they use:

smuggler sinai

Oases in the desert offer a place for the smugglers to refill their canteens and find some shelter from the brutal afternoon sun:

oasis sinai desert

Distances in the Sinai are long… Stopping to refuel the jeep from extra cans of gasoline we brought along:

smuggling route sinai

smugglers jeep sinai

Our picaresque guides ended the day by taking us down one of their more intense trails, which winds through a narrow canyon. The knowledge of these trails is passed down from generation to generation in Bedouin families, much in the same way family heirlooms or businesses are passed down by families in the West.

They have not had to use the route shown below following the revolt in Egypt last year, but had to use it on numerous occasions prior to that. Ibrahim and Samar don’t like this route because the smuggled goods must be carried on their backs through here. However, they informed us that the police have never watched this route and so during times of heavy police activity in the past, this would be the route they were forced to use in the area.

It may seem that this route is only for smaller items, but Ibrahim told me that his uncle had smuggled a tractor through here in the past.

“A tractor!?!”

“Yes, they took it apart and then brought it through piece by piece. Then they put it back together again on the other side.”

Never underestimate the Bedouin mind or the power of capitalism…

bedouin smuggler sinai

sinai desert smuggling trail

At the mouth of the canyon a small camp is set up for use by the Bedouin smugglers. The smugglers feel safer moving at night and it is certainly more comfortable than traveling during the heat of the day:

sinai desert ansar al jihad


You might be wondering how all of this ties together.

With the collapse of both pillars of Sinai’s economy, there are a lot of desperate, unhappy people to be found in the Sinai.  This can be a combustible mix by itself.  However, the longstanding resentment of the Bedouins toward the Egyptian government is also adding tinder to this looming conflagration.

This resentment and desperation along with the strategic position of the Sinai has not gone unnoticed. And, in fact, militant activity in the Sinai has been increasing for several years now…

sinai militant

In October of 2004, three bombings tore through the Sinai, killing 34 people and injuring 171.  One attack was in the town of Taba (on the border with Israel) where a truck was driven into the lobby of the Hilton Hotel and detonated, causing ten floors of the hotel to collapse.

The other attacks took place near the Egyptian town of Nuweiba where a car parked in front of a restaurant at the Moon Island resort and one parked in front of Baddiyah campground exploded.

In July of 2005, Sharm el-Sheikh, located at the southern tip of the Sinai Peninsula and extremely popular with Italians, was targeted.  88 people were killed and more than 150 wounded in a series of bomb blasts that targeted a market in downtown Sharm el-Sheikh and a beachfront hotel – the Ghazala Gardens.

A group calling itself the Abdullah Azzam Brigades was the first to claim responsibility for the attacks. On a website the group stated that “holy warriors targeted the Ghazala Gardens hotel and the Old Market in Sharm el-Sheikh” and claimed ties to Al-Qaeda. Additional claims were later made by two other groups calling themselves the “Tawhid and Jihad Group in Egypt” and “Holy Warriors of Egypt”.

In April of 2006, the Egyptian seaside town of Dahab was hit by a series of bombings which killed 23 people and wounded at least 80.  One blast occurred at the Nelson restaurant, one near the Aladdin cafe and one near the Ghazala market.

Later investigations revealed the blasts were suicide attacks, set off by Bedouins, as in earlier attacks in the Sinai.  Egyptian security officials have stated that the attacks were the work of an organization called Jama’at al-Tawhīd wal-Jihad (Monotheism and Jihad).


Since the fall of Hosni Mubarak, matters have intensified rather than subsided… But, the profile of the targets has changed.  Much of that has to do with the collapse of tourism as bombing empty hotels and beaches is a fairly impotent gesture.

However, another factor is the increased strength of the group.  Instead of suicide bombers sneaking in to attack vulnerable targets, Ansar al Jihad and other militants now feel empowered enough to attempt direct attacks on the Egyptian and Israeli governments.

Immediately following the ouster of Mubarak, hundreds of Islamic militants, many from Ayman al Zawahiri’s Egyptian Islamic Jihad were freed or escaped from various Egyptian prisons. Zawahiri is, of course, the Egyptian who has replaced Osama bin Laden as emir of al Qaeda. He was the leader of the Egyptian Islamic Jihad before merging with al Qaeda in 2001. Zawahiri has long tried to rebuild the infrastructure of the militant underground he led in Egypt in the 1990s and now it would seem he has his chance.

Also freed in the jailbreaks were terrorists involved in the attacks on tourist hotels in the Sinai in 2005 and 2006.

The militants that escaped or were freed over the past 12 months have found a haven in the Sinai, where their global jihadist ideology seems to mix well with local Bedouin grievances.

A Bedouin camp deep in the Sinai:

sinai bedouin camp

The Bedouins are desperate and angry right now. They are desperate because of the collapse of the Sinai economy and they are angry because they feel this is part of the continuing neglect they have long experienced at the hands of the Egyptian government.

The Bedouins welcome the money showered on them by the militants for protection, safe passage and heavy weaponry. And both the Bedouins and the militants share a grudge against the Egyptian government. Is this loose Bedouin alliance with Islamic militants really any surprise then?

It’s an easy market for Ansar al Jihad and they have been quick to capitalize on it…

Almost immediately following the collapse of Hosni Mubarak’s rule, attacks against the Sinai pipeline carrying Egyptian natural gas to Israel and Jordan started.

The pipeline after one of many attacks:

egypt pipeline attack ansar al jihad

In July of 2011, dozens of armed, masked men attacked a police station in the town of Arish in north Sinai. A shootout lasting for hours killed several civilians and left one officer dead.

The assailants escaped, but not before circulating pamphlets announcing a “Statement from al-Qaeda in the Sinai Peninsula.” The statement called for creating an Islamic emirate in the Sinai, implementing sharia law, breaking the Egyptian-Israeli peace treaty, halting discrimination against the Sinai’s Bedouin tribes and demanding Egyptian military intervention on behalf of the Hamas regime in Gaza.

In August of 2011, gunmen crossed the Egyptian border to attack Israel on its own soil… Below is a timeline and description of the attacks:

The original attacks occurred in three coordinated stages. They were carried out by 12 militants in four groups dispersed over an area 12 kilometers long. At least some of the attackers wore brown uniforms, similar to those used by the Egyptian Army.

The attacks commenced around 12:00 pm near the Ein Netafim spring, on Highway 12 from Mitzpe Ramon to Eilat, when three militants spread out about 200 meters from one another, armed with suicide bomb vests, grenades, RPGs, and machine guns opened fire on a Egged passenger bus on line 392, carrying mostly soldiers but also some civilians.

Seven passengers were wounded, most of them soldiers. According to eyewitnesses, a white car was following the bus, and a group of people dressed in military uniforms got out and opened fire. The bus driver, Benny Belevsky, did not stop the bus and sped away, getting to an IDF post near the Netafim Border Crossing.

The militants, dressed in brown uniforms resembling those of the Egyptian Army, then began attacking passing vehicles, waving white handkerchiefs to fool motorists. One of the militants attacked a bus that drove by and detonated the suicide bomb belt he was wearing, killing himself and the bus driver, who had stopped the empty bus.

Another militant opened fire at a passing car and killed the female driver. The same militant then fired an RPG at an Israeli Air Force helicopter, but missed. An IDF jeep from the Golani Brigade then arrived at the scene and ran over the militant, killing him.

Another Golani Brigade jeep arrived, and ran over a roadside bomb. As the soldiers exited the damaged vehicle, the surviving militant opened fire at them. Soldiers and Yamam special police officers then located the militant and killed him in a gunbattle. Two other militants then opened fire at the from Egyptian territory. Israeli forces briefly crossed the border and killed both of the militants. One Israeli soldier was killed by friendly fire during the engagement and several soldiers were wounded. The Egyptian Army informed the IDF that its soldiers killed two more militants in the Sinai.

In the third attack, which occurred around 12:35, mortar shells were fired at soldiers carrying out routine maintenance work at the security fence constructed along the border between Israel and Egypt. No one was hurt in the attack.

Around 13:30, not far from the first shooting incident, militants opened fire, including with an anti-tank missile, at a bus and private car on route 90, a desert road near the border with Jordan. According to medics, five people were killed in the attacks. Seven people were wounded when another private vehicle was hit by an anti-tank missile. Eyewitnesses suggested that some of the attackers may have been wearing Egyptian Army uniforms.

Around 18:30, an Israeli patrol was fired on from the Egyptian border as it searched for militants. Israeli troops returned fire, and the shooting lasted for about an hour. A sniper from the Yamam special police unit was critically wounded and later died.

This is on the Israeli side of the border – along Highway 12 – approximately one kilometer from where most of the killing described above took place:

sinai border israel

This is, unfortunately, as close as we could get as the Israelis have closed Highway 12 and just around the bend is an Israeli roadblock that is rigidly enforced:

sinai border israel militants

More recently, it was reported by several news outlets that Ansar al Jihad/Al Qaeda in the Sinai Peninsula has been establishing ties with Gaza-based Salafist groups and is seeking to coordinate operations.


On the 24th of January 2012, Ansar al Jihad swore allegiance to Ayman al-Zawahiri through the following statement released on the Sinam al Islam jihadist web forum:

“To our beloved emir and honorable sheikh, Abu Muhammad Ayman al Zawahiri … from your soldiers in the beloved Sinai in the Land of the Quiver [Egypt], we give you allegiance for obedience in good and bad, in difficulty and ease, and altruism,” the statement said. “So, throw us wherever you wish…. We will never quit or surrender until the last drop of our blood [is spilled] in the Cause of Allah and until Islam rules by the help of Allah the Almighty.”

The statement was signed by “Your soldiers in Ansar al Jihad in the Sinai Peninsula.”

This statement is significant as Ansar al Jihad is clearly angling for official al Qaeda sponsorship. Ayman al Zawahiri has publicly offered words of support for Ansar al Jihad, but has not yet endorsed the group as a formal franchise of al Qaeda.

Regardless of whether they receive al Qaeda’s sponsorship or not, The rise of Ansar al Jihad poses a ticklish problem for the Muslim Brotherhood…

Egypt’s elections, which began late last year and are still ongoing, allowed the Muslim Brotherhood’s Freedom and Justice party to obtain a clear majority in parliament.

However, as Muslim Brotherhood Islamists advance towards holding the reins of power, Islamists of a different brand (Ansar al Jihad) have emerged and seem determined to use violence to achieve their objectives. This is in contrast to the route taken by the Muslim Brotherhood, the Salafists, and even jihadist groups such as the Islamic Group.

As Rajeh Said wrote on February 8th of this year,

“The Muslim Brotherhood’s disapproval of al-Qaeda’s methods is not new. What’s new, however, is that the two trends in Islamist ideology will confront each other for the first time since the Arab spring led to changes that enabled Islamists to reach power in more than one Arab country, such as Tunisia and Morocco, with Islamists in Egypt apparently following in their footsteps.

An alliance, or at least an oath of allegiance to al-Qaeda by an active organisation in Egypt constitutes a clear challenge to any government in that country. Such a local group could resort to attacks against Westerners (a favorite target of al-Qaeda), inflicting serious damage to the tourism sector on which the Egyptian economy is based, including the economy of Sinai, where the most prominent Egyptian coastal tourist resorts are located.

The threat posed by Ansar al-Jihad’s position on internal Egyptian matters is as serious as its outward link to al-Qaeda, if not more, because it compromises the national fabric of Egypt, and specifically the relationship between Muslims and Copts.

The group posted clearly stated positions on its website on the relationship of Muslims with the Copts and the form of the Egyptian state that differ greatly from the positions of the Muslim Brotherhood, and even the Salafist’s stated positions.

In a statement, Ansar al-Jihad said the Copts have to pay taxes to their Muslims rulers under an Islamic state in Egypt.

It also criticised unnamed groups that do not espouse a ‘religious state’ in Egypt, in a clear reference to the Muslim Brotherhood, which explicitly said it wants a civil, not a religious state.”


What could possibly make things more exciting here? Why not throw a radioactive “dirty” bomb into the mix? Yes, that’s right. In January of 2012, in a development that has spooked the region, radioactive materials contained within calibration devices were stolen from a controversial Egyptian nuclear power plant under construction in Dabaa. The identities of the thieves are unknown, but it is possible that they are local Bedouins, who have been vandalizing and violently protesting against the plant, which is being built on land taken from them without compensation.

Israel is concerned that these materials will be transferred into the Sinai where they could be used to construct a “dirty” bomb which could then be smuggled into Israel.

A “dirty” bomb, of course, is an ordinary bomb composed of ordinary explosives, to which radioactive material is added. The explosion of the ordinary bomb causes the dispersal of the radioactive material over a large area. Casualties would result from the initial explosion, the radiation, and the ensuing panic.

A very basic level of knowledge in the assembly of explosive charges is all that is needed to create a dirty bomb. Such a bomb, composed of several hundred pounds of explosives, added together with several pounds of radioactive material would have quite a direct and indirect impact…


Just a few days ago, the pipeline that supplies natural gas to Israel was blown up for the 12th time in the past year outside of the Massaeed area west of the coastal town of el-Arish.  Ansar al Jihad claimed responsibility for the attack and stated that the latest attack was in retaliation for the death of one of their leaders, Muhammad Eid Musleh Hamad, also known as Muhammad Tihi, who died in his prison cell in Cairo. He was captured by Egyptian security on November 13th, and accused of masterminding a series of bombings which have battered the gas pipelines in the Sinai peninsula.

The group also attacked the Nakhl police station in central Sinai. This same station had been hit by rocket propelled grenades just a few days before.


I’ll let Bruce Riedel, a senior fellow in the Saban Center for Middle East Policy at the Brookings Institution and a career CIA officer make the closing statement…

For Zawahiri and al-Qaeda, the emergence of a sympathetic jihadist infrastructure in Sinai would be a strategic gain in a pivotal arena. Even a relatively small number of terrorists hiding in the remote mountains of the central Sinai would be a dangerous threat to the stability of the region. They could target the pipeline, the border, tourists at Sharm el-Shaykh and even American troops serving with the twelve-nation-strong Multinational Force Organization that is charged with monitoring the peace agreement in Sinai. If al-Qaeda can open a new front here, it will be a danger to peace and stability in the region as a whole.

The ideology of al-Qaeda has gained adherents in the Sinai as well as in Gaza. It’s already a volatile situation, and adding al-Qaeda to the mix—which would love to provoke a war between Egypt and Israel—may cause the Middle East to get a lot hotter.

As I mentioned at the beginning, things are getting interesting in the Sinai…

sinai desert landscape

13 thoughts on “The Sinai Peninsula

  1. A timely piece from the Guardian (Hat tip to Ben Walker)…

    Sinai explodes into violence after years of chronic poverty and alienation
    Egypt’s Bedouin accused of looting resorts, bombing pipelines and abducting foreigners in post-Mubarak security vacuum

    Harriet Sherwood in Nuweiba, Sinai
    Tuesday 14 February 2012

    Ahmed Abdo was still asleep in his hut at the gate of the Aqua-Sun beach resort on Egypt’s Red Sea coast when 20 masked men carrying guns burst in.

    Abdo, 30, and his two colleagues were tied up, their mobile phones taken. The intruders, members of the Bedouin Tarabeen tribe, demanded money – 4m Egyptian pounds (£420,000) – from the owner in compensation for the land on which the resort was built. It belonged, they said, to the Tarabeen.

    When the owner demurred, “they took everything – air conditioners, generators, televisions, gas canisters, even the doors,” said Abdo. He showed the Guardian around the deserted and ransacked resort: doors kicked in or missing, mattresses taken from bed frames, windows smashed, cushions and rugs seized. The office had been stripped of equipment and furniture; room occupancy charts and leaflets were strewn across the floor. Ten fridges and a huge freezer had gone. Air conditioning units were torn from walls. They even tried to take the pool table, but dropped it mid-heist, leaving it lopsided on buckled legs. The value of goods taken is estimated at more than £100,000.

    “Of course I was frightened,” said Abdo. “We told them we are only workers here, we need to feed our children.” Fortunately, there were no guests at the Aqua Sun at the time of the raid three weeks ago, a combined result of the low season and the impact of Egypt’s upheavals on tourism.

    The police, said Abdo, had not intervened. A highway patrol passed the resort as it was being looted but “they minded their own business”. A local police chief has since advised the Aqua Sun’s owner “to solve the problem with the Bedouin because it’s not a good time for us to go into confrontation with them,” according to Abdo.

    The raid on the Aqua-Sun, apparently carried out by a small group of Tarabeen men living outside the immediate area, is one of a string of incidents in the Sinai over recent months. In south of the peninsula, it includes tourist kidnappings and armed robbery; in the north, it is more serious – the repeated bombing of a gas pipeline, the smuggling of people, arms and drugs, and a rise in militant Islamism.

    What connects them is a new assertiveness among the region’s Bedouin after decades of marginalisation, neglect and discrimination, as well as a growing security vacuum following the fall of former president Hosni Mubarak.

    Israel, whose border with the Sinai runs for some 240km (150 miles), has viewed the spate of attacks over the past year with alarm. “Measures are needed to prevent the total collapse of security in and around the peninsula [and] avoid the rise of an armed runaway Bedouin statelet,” wrote the Israeli analyst Ehud Yaari in a report, Sinai: A New Front, for the Washington Institute for Near East Policy last month. He described the peninsula as a “new hotspot … with an expanding terrorist infrastructure” and a wild frontier.

    In the past 13 months, a pipeline which carries gas through north Sinai to Israel and Jordan has been attacked by militants 12 times, most recently just over a week ago, disrupting flow and causing millions of dollars of damage.

    Armed gangs are trafficking huge numbers of people fleeing persecution, war or poverty from rest of Africa, charging thousands of dollars for passage across the Sinai into Israel. Camps have been established, from which emanate horrific stories of rape, torture, extortion, misery and desperation.

    Smuggling across the border has become an industry: arms and goods to Gaza; marijuana and refugees to Israel. According to Yaari, the annual worth of this parallel economy was estimated to have exceed $300m (£190m) last year.

    Israeli intelligence officials claim Hamas and other Islamic groups are working with militants among the Bedouin to launch operations against Israel. They are “turning Sinai into another arena from which terrorist activity can be launched”, said Major General Aviv Kochavi, head of Israeli military intelligence, earlier this month.

    A cross-border attack last August in which eight Israelis were killed was carried out by Bedouin militants from the Sinai, Israel’s military concluded last month, having initially blamed a Palestinian militant group in Gaza, several of whose members had been killed in retaliatory attacks.

    In response, Israel is rapidly constructing a fence – 5 metres (16ft) above ground, 1.5 metres below, reinforced with razor wire – along its border with the Sinai peninsula. It has also relaxed its insistence on Egypt demilitarising the peninsula under the terms of the 1979 peace treaty between the two and has boosted its own military presence along the border.

    Hostage-takings in the past month have included the kidnapping of 19 Egyptian border guards after the death in custody of a Bedouin man; 25 Chinese cement workers, held for four days; as well as separate incidents in the south involving two US and three Korean tourists who were visiting St Catherine’s monastery. All were subsequently released unharmed. But in Sharm el-Sheikh, a French tourist was shot dead and four others injured last month in an armed robbery at a bureau de change.

    Many observers say lawlessness and anarchy has soared, particularly in northern Sinai, since Mubarak fell a year ago. But the region has long been semi-detached from the rest of Egypt and largely beyond the iron grip of its security forces.

    It has suffered from chronic under-investment in education, health and transport. Its inhabitants are among the poorest in Egypt. Added to the potent mix of poverty, alienation and tribal loyalties is a sizeable Palestinian population in the north of the peninsula, with family, political and economic connections to Gaza.

    In the south, massive investment since the 1990s in upscale resorts in the former Bedouin fishing village of Sharm el-Sheikh, and a programme to create a “Red Sea Riveria” along the coast, has further alienated the Bedouin.

    The resorts, aimed at wealthy Cairenes and foreign tourists from Europe, the Gulf States and – until a series of bomb attacks in 2004-06 – Israel, rarely offer jobs to Bedouin, preferring to import Egyptian labour from Cairo and other Egyptian cities.

    “This is the land of the Bedouin, but the hotel owners don’t want any Bedouin in their hotels. Even the women are not allowed to sell beads on the beach,” said 20-year-old Fedayah Rebabah in Nuweiba.

    Many of the international chain hotels offer all-inclusive packages, ensuring that tourist cash does not find its way into local pockets. Locals have been largely restricted to offering “Bedouin experiences” of camel rides and tea-brewing to tourists.

    The Egyptian tourism authority has allocated land along the coast for resort development, pushing the Bedouin into smaller enclaves or further inland to the desert. And many of the tribes are now demanding compensation for land which they say historically belongs to them.

    “Aqua-Sun is on Tarabeen land,” said Sheikh Amsalaam Faraj, 42, while adding that he and other senior tribesmen were angry at the seizure of property at the resort, which he blamed on “crazy people” within the tribe. “This is not the right way to do things. This has made a problem for the whole area.” Tarabeen leaders were working a deal to resolve the crisis, he said.

    Ayman Moeed, manager of Aqua-Sun, said its owners were effectively being asked to pay for the land twice. He said security was a big problem: the Egyptian army “is not here very much” and the police have little authority over the Bedouin.

    But the main change, he said by phone from Cairo, was the revolution. “In the Mubarak era, there was a strong government and the Bedouin were kept in a box. They didn’t say anything or do anything. But now they have freedom to do what they want. The Bedouin are the power now, and they’re trying to take the land.”

    Suleiman Rebabah, 24, and his cousin Salama el-Fahd, 38, agree the Bedouin have felt more powerful and assertive since Mubarak’s departure. “Now you can go everywhere,” said El Fahd. “For work, it is worse [since the revolution] but for freedom, it is better,” said Rebabah.

    Back at the Aqua-Sun, another deadline for a deal passed last Friday without a resolution. According to Moeed, it was down to “the big men of the Tarabeen” to broker a compromise over the property. For now, the plundered resort remains deserted behind padlocked gates.

  2. I had a high school friend in the 101st airborne assigned in the Sinai. upon his return just before Christmas, he was killed in a military contract flight that crashed in gander Newfoundland. He was one of those big talkers tough guy types but he wrote me a letter with much concern of “seeing action” as the Israeli / Egyptian treaty was at risk in 1984-1985. I am enthralled with your tales, thank you for your valuable contributions. you return respect to journalism.

    • I’m sorry about your friend… Given the current trends, his concern about “seeing action” in the Sinai may comes to pass – just at a different time than he expected.

      And thank you very much for your kind words. That really means a lot to me.

  3. And here I read through your remarkable piece thinking, “Oh, I wonder if they’re aware of this/that…” Honestly, you’ve summed it up excellently and added some great insight. Thanks. I have been intrigued by the Sinai since I arrived in Egypt, and have tried to dig into it, even once working on a Bedouin farm for a day. Smuggling has always been a problem, but I never thought of the revolution being bad for smugglers’ profits, as well. But the dark side of it needs some light as well. I remember reading about 300 or so Eritreans who were being held in the Sinai during the revolution last year. They were paying to be smuggled to Israel, but would instead get thrown in a hole and their families made to pay ransom, sometimes helplessly listening while their son or daughter is beaten or raped on the other side of the phone call. Tragic stuff. Thanks for covering this topic so well.

    • Thank you very much for your comment and the additional information, Dallin.

      The counter-intuitive desire of the smugglers for an increased police and military presence in the Sinai was intriguing and amusing to me as well. And you’re definitely right about there being a dark side too… Obviously, the smugglers I was with were not going to show that side of things, but I know it exists. Your story reminds me of the horror stories we hear about Africans being smuggled into Italy or people from Central and South America being smuggled through Mexico into the United States. I’d love to have been able to delve a bit into the negative side of the smugglers, but such connections are not easily made…

  4. Hi Justin – Since I first started receiving Velvet Rocket, I’ve been happily enjoying your travel reports and pix, thinking you were obviously a travel writer. Now I perceive you are more involved than that. Please could you share your motives for what you do, where you go, and what you intend with all this information. I love it and I’m deadly curious about where you’re going. Please don’t stop, but please give me a little more information. Thanks, and keep up your brilliant work. Jan

  5. Commentary from Stratfor on Sinai:

    Egypt: Fallout From the Sinai Kidnappings
    February 4, 2012 | 0101 GMT

    Gunmen kidnapped two Americans Feb. 3 on Egypt’s Sinai Peninsula. Thought the two were later released, the incident highlights Cairo’s loosening security grip on the Sinai and will harm Egypt’s tourism sector, which is still recovering from unrest after the Arab Spring.


    Masked gunmen abducted two Americans on Feb. 3 from a tourist bus traveling from St. Catherine’s Monastery to Sharm el-Sheikh in Egypt’s Sinai Peninsula and released them just hours later.

    The kidnapping is part of a string of incidents highlighting Cairo’s failure to maintain security in the era after the ouster of former Egyptian President Hosni Mubarak. Insecurity in the Sinai damages Egypt’s tourism industry, which comprises 12 percent of the economy and employs 5 percent of the population, thus preventing the industry from recovering from Arab Spring unrest.

    According to witnesses, masked men thought to be Bedouins intercepted the bus as it returned from St. Catherine’s, a major Sinai tourist destination, near the village of Wadi al-Soal. The men seized the two Americans, both in their 60s, and their local guide and stole from the other passengers.

    Security officials in the southern Sinai immediately alerted the U.S. Embassy in Cairo and deployed police forces and a military aircraft for an emergency search operation. The rapid deployment shows how seriously Cairo took the incident given the involvement of U.S. citizens. They also tried to begin negotiations with the attackers via local tribal elders. These efforts apparently bore fruit.

    The motivations behind the attack remain unclear. Some reports claim the kidnappers demanded the release of their confederates held in Egyptian jails in exchange for the hostages. The theft of valuables from passengers and the speed at which the captives were released may indicates they were kidnapped to demand a ransom.

    The kidnapping occurred just two days after Bedouins kidnapped Chinese workers in El Arish in the northern Sinai. Those abductors demanded the release of their relatives detained in connection with a 2004 bombing. It also comes two weeks after a French tourist died in a shootout in Sharm el-Sheikh.

    Incidents like these are not uncommon in the Sinai Peninsula, a vast desert isolated from the Nile Delta and where Bedouins historically have clashed with settled communities. This string of incidents, however, points to an increasingly unstable security situation in the Sinai — one that Cairo is losing its grip over. The death of the French tourist and the Feb. 3 kidnappings are especially significant given that they occurred in the southern Sinai, a hub of tourist activity in Egypt. According to official numbers, the tourism industry declined 30 percent in the last year — a decline likely to worsen should tourists continue to be targets.

    Conversely, outbreaks of violence in urban centers of the Egyptian Delta will prevent the Sinai tourism industry from recovering, such as the soccer stampede in Port Said, where more than 70 people died. The same day as the Sinai kidnappings, two Egyptians were killed in the city of Suez, along with a demonstrator and an army officer in Cairo during violent protests, attended by thousands, against the Interior Ministry. Images of bloodstained bleachers and crowds of young men with machetes in urban centers tarnish Egypt’s reputation as an accommodating tourist destination even more than the isolated and quickly resolved incidents of kidnappings by discontented Bedouins in the desert.

    On the other side of the Sinai, Israel is watching developments like this carefully. It fears the political crisis unfolding in Egypt’s urban centers is distracting the Egyptian army and preventing it from securing the Sinai as effectively as under Mubarak. The Israelis fear the presence of various militant organizations that operate in the Sinai, such as the emergent Al Qaeda in the Sinai, suspected of planning operations from the town of El Arish in the northern Sinai. While select groups of Bedouins have facilitated the operations of militant organizations such as these in the past, that does not seem to be the case with the bus incident. This kidnapping was settled quickly, appears to have been criminally motivated, and was contained to the southern Sinai. Still, the Egyptian security apparatus’ failure to prevent such incidents increases Israeli fears.

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